Past the contemporary, fortress-like Ministry building and the grass-covered P.O.P.B., an unremarkable path through part of the P.O.P.B.'s parking lot leads into a tree-lined section of the Parc de Bercy. But don't be fooled by this bland entrance: the Parc turns out to be one of the nicest green spaces in Paris. Dotted with modern stone gazebos, as well as old-fashioned wooden park benches, the Parc offers both a place to relax and a feast for the eyes, with interesting and unusual fountains and landscaping, and even a view of the impressive future home of the complexe Cinématographique, designed by Frank Ghery. Within the Parc, there's the Eden-like Jardin Yitzhak Rabin, which, besides a variety of gardens, also houses the Maison du Jardinage, a charming cottage that's both a center for gardening information and classes, and a small museum that kids would especially enjoy. Beyond the Parc is Bercy Village, a shopping center that contains many pleasant stores and restaurants.

But rest assured, history buffs will find things to love in Bercy, too. Passing through the Village's modern entryways, one arrives right in the center of the Cour St-Emilion, a cobbled street surrounded by the former warehouses of wine merchants. Though most are now occupied by modern shops, a few are wine bars and cellars. At one end of this street is an old wine barrel, on the other side is a huge 18-screen multiplex.

With this modern splendor all around, it might seem hard to find more traces of the small village that Bercy once was. But it's not impossible. The rue de Thorins and surrounding streets offer glimpses of more old wine storehouses, some of which are still in use today. Or, wander down the rue de Dijon and for a view of Notre-Dame de la Nativité de Bercy, site of the oldest church in the 12th Arrondissement (the present version was mainly constructed in 1823), situated in what resembles a village square surrounded by glass and steel apartment buildings. It only further goes to show that Bercy today may be the epitome of modern, prosperous Paris, but the remnants of its past compliment this contemporary quartier like a fine wine.